Posts Tagged ‘Vogue 1154’

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Badgley Mischka Part 3: cutting steel

August 22, 2011

So, because adding the foundation to the dress was one of the final steps, I put off dealing with the steel boning till near the end. I went out and bought clippers to cut the steel spiral chain to size but discovered that it’s harder to cut steel than I thought. My clippers just mangled the boning without actually cutting.

With a bit of help from the search engine so ubiquitous it is a verb, I found a techique that involved bending the piece back and forth until it  became weak enough that it came apart.

The only problem with this technique is that it leaves the ends messy and prone to poke into my body. I could have counteracted this by buying metal caps for the ends of my lengths of boning but i forgot to order them so I created little taffeta caps for the ends that allowed them to be threaded into their channels relatively easy.

I skipped the lining layer the pattern called for as the top fabric is sheer so I stitched the taffeta as though it were the same layer as the sheer fabric and decided that could serve as the lining.

Here is the completed dress:

And here it is in action:

So we’re not the greatest dancers…

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Badgley Mischka Part 2: crash course in corsetry

August 20, 2011

The corset has always scared me a bit on principle. They sound impressive. You rarely see them in everyday life these days and people pay hundreds of dollars for them. So this dress has a full corset style foundation. It’s actually one of my favourite parts of the dress now but it made a muslin essential.

For the first time, I made my muslin out of real muslin. I usually use leftover pieces from wadders or whatever cheap broadcloth I can get a hold of  but I’d found some cheap muslin so I went for it.

I did my own rather unorthodox type of full bust adjustment that I have slowly been developing over the past months and then followed the directions to make the muslin version of the dress foundation.

I had to trim the sections at the side to make it fit properly.

I stitched the channels for the boning. I made the channels the full width of my presser foot and increased the seam allowance so I had extra layers of fabric for stability arond the bones.

Once I finished the muslin and got it fitting right, I took a deep breath and started cutting my fabric.

I used the taffetta for the foundation corset and I added a layer of tulle in between the taffetta layers for extra stability after Erica B mentioned using can-can lace in hers.

You can kind of see the tulle in this picture.

When all the cutting was done, I marked the fold and stitching marks for the darts and tucks in the bodice and skirt. The methods I use to mark fabric are old fashioned and probably not the best. I mark with contrasting thread. This means I put extra holes in the fabric but it seems the most accurate.

Here’s a close up of some of the tuck and dart detail on the finished dress

I don’t think the extra holes hurt it.

Final steps and pics coming up.

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Badgley Mischka part 1

August 18, 2011

We’ve had a wedding filled summer this year (and that’s not including the royal wedding :P). We’ve gone to three weddings since May and while my plan had been to make one dress and wear it to all three, but I didn’t really like the first dress so I wound up wearing something different to each one.

Vogue 1154 seemed like a good challenge to take on. I’ve only tried a Vogue Advanced pattern once before and it was a bit of a disaster so I was nervous about trying it again. I always find Vogue directions to be just a little bit vague. Sometimes I feel like they are a secret family recipe that they shared but made a few changes to so it will never be quite as good as their version.

I checked out PatternReview and read up on the beautiful version made by the fabulous Erica B and the lovely pink version made by Ann at Sew Baby.

Both sewists gave me tips and reassurance that I used to formulate my plan.

 Since Erica didn’t make the jacket, Ann indicated that it was hard to fit when she did and I don’t need to make my shoulders look bigger, I decided to skip the jacket. Erica used steel boning so I thought I’d take a shot at it too.

I found some fabric that I’m pretty sure used to be a dupatta at a thrift store on sale and then bought some tafetta for the lining.

Here are my supplies, all ready to go:

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Update from an AWOL blogger

July 25, 2011

I have once again run into the issue of not being about to both sew and blog at the same time. Or perhaps more accurately, not being able to sew and have lovely photographs taken at the same time.

So, here is a quick, text based update on what I have been doing.

I bowed out of the SWAP but I did not stop sewing some of the items for it. I promise photos will come.

I sewed McCalls 5661 view C. I took another shot at the Rachel Comey blouse and am much happier with the way it turned out. It reminded me once again that it is all about fabric texture and draping.

I also made two dresses. I made the dress from Vogue 8701. I’m not entirely happy with the way it fits about the shoulders so I tend to wear it with a sweater. I think the fitting issues relate to the FBA I did rather the pattern itself, but since one of my major issues is with bodice fitting, it doesn’t surprise me.

The other dress I made was Vogue 1223 which I wore to a wedding. I like the way it flows but I’m still not so thrilled with the way it fit in the bodice. Clearly I still  have bodice work to do.

Right now I am working on my second attempt at a Vogue Advanced pattern. I am trying to do the Vogue Badgley Mischka Platinum  dress for a wedding I am going to this Friday. I am not as far along as I should be but hope is not gone yet. I am recording the process so i will blog it when it’s done.