Posts Tagged ‘FBA’

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A Tops SWAP dress

September 15, 2011

This is my version of the dress from Vogue 8701.

This dress and the challenges it brings are the reasons I chose to focus my SWAP on fitting  bodices. I’m not entirely thrilled with the way this dress fits. I find it to be somewhat tight where it should be loose and loose where it should be tight. I think I will probably try it again sometime with different fabric.  

One of the main issues I have with it is the neckline. I love the V at the back. It’s one of the major features that made me want to make this dress, but the opening is too wide for me and shows my bra straps which is something I prefer not to do at the office. As a result, I tend to wear a cardigan with the dress…

…and I think that solves the problem for now. My wildcard item for this year’s SWAP is the blazer from this pattern so once I have finished that, this dress will have a go to jacket.

I still think that I would like to try to make the dress again out of a non satin fabric. I originally wanted to make the dress out of a lightweight white linen but my local fabric chain didn’t have any when I was in there (I have been unimpressed with their selection lately) so I went with the shiny sateen polka dots. I think I will try it again in the near future when I find the right fabric.

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Like my wedding dress, only better

August 27, 2011

I love the pattern I used for my wedding dress: McCalls 4444 ; but even though it’s just a sundress, I have yet to feel comfortable wearing the dress again. It’s white and lacy enough that it’s a giveaway.

See:

So I decided to make another version but this time I wanted to pay more attention to fitting the bodice. I usually have trouble wearing a sweetheart neckline because the fabric alloted to the bust is never enough to adequately cover my breasts. I mean it’s not obscene for me to wear storebought dresses like that but it’s generally a whole lot more skin than I like showing and I look like I’m poured in to the dress in question.

So this time around I played with the “cup size” until I felt like the bodice actually covered me and I didn’t look so much like I was poured into the dress. It was a really exciting feeling to put on a dress that actually seemed to fit my chest. It’s still a little low but that’s because the dress design is a little low cut not because it doesn’t fit.

I also altered the back of the dress by extending the halter straps so that instead of buttoning the short ends under the neck, I can tie them in a bow and let the ends hang decoratively down my back.

See, pretty strap ends.

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Badgley Mischka Part 2: crash course in corsetry

August 20, 2011

The corset has always scared me a bit on principle. They sound impressive. You rarely see them in everyday life these days and people pay hundreds of dollars for them. So this dress has a full corset style foundation. It’s actually one of my favourite parts of the dress now but it made a muslin essential.

For the first time, I made my muslin out of real muslin. I usually use leftover pieces from wadders or whatever cheap broadcloth I can get a hold of  but I’d found some cheap muslin so I went for it.

I did my own rather unorthodox type of full bust adjustment that I have slowly been developing over the past months and then followed the directions to make the muslin version of the dress foundation.

I had to trim the sections at the side to make it fit properly.

I stitched the channels for the boning. I made the channels the full width of my presser foot and increased the seam allowance so I had extra layers of fabric for stability arond the bones.

Once I finished the muslin and got it fitting right, I took a deep breath and started cutting my fabric.

I used the taffetta for the foundation corset and I added a layer of tulle in between the taffetta layers for extra stability after Erica B mentioned using can-can lace in hers.

You can kind of see the tulle in this picture.

When all the cutting was done, I marked the fold and stitching marks for the darts and tucks in the bodice and skirt. The methods I use to mark fabric are old fashioned and probably not the best. I mark with contrasting thread. This means I put extra holes in the fabric but it seems the most accurate.

Here’s a close up of some of the tuck and dart detail on the finished dress

I don’t think the extra holes hurt it.

Final steps and pics coming up.