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Badgley Mischka Part 2: crash course in corsetry

August 20, 2011

The corset has always scared me a bit on principle. They sound impressive. You rarely see them in everyday life these days and people pay hundreds of dollars for them. So this dress has a full corset style foundation. It’s actually one of my favourite parts of the dress now but it made a muslin essential.

For the first time, I made my muslin out of real muslin. I usually use leftover pieces from wadders or whatever cheap broadcloth I can get a hold of  but I’d found some cheap muslin so I went for it.

I did my own rather unorthodox type of full bust adjustment that I have slowly been developing over the past months and then followed the directions to make the muslin version of the dress foundation.

I had to trim the sections at the side to make it fit properly.

I stitched the channels for the boning. I made the channels the full width of my presser foot and increased the seam allowance so I had extra layers of fabric for stability arond the bones.

Once I finished the muslin and got it fitting right, I took a deep breath and started cutting my fabric.

I used the taffetta for the foundation corset and I added a layer of tulle in between the taffetta layers for extra stability after Erica B mentioned using can-can lace in hers.

You can kind of see the tulle in this picture.

When all the cutting was done, I marked the fold and stitching marks for the darts and tucks in the bodice and skirt. The methods I use to mark fabric are old fashioned and probably not the best. I mark with contrasting thread. This means I put extra holes in the fabric but it seems the most accurate.

Here’s a close up of some of the tuck and dart detail on the finished dress

I don’t think the extra holes hurt it.

Final steps and pics coming up.

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